In most current sportbikes, codes are set and cleared in real time, meaning if a fault is detected, a code is set, and as soon as the fault is fixed, the code disappears.  Codes are normally only displayed via a dash light (FI light), and may or may not be available to the dealer on a communication bus.  However, Triumph is a little different.  The Triumph ECU (engine control unit) uses an OBD2 interface just like most cars.  These systems are much more complex but offer some distinct advantages to the manufacture, and some disadvantages to the owners.

Dealers love these systems because it offers real time datalogging, code storage for later review, and easy reprogramming functionality.  Owners may find these systems difficult to understand, and not DIY friendly, often times without special equipment it can be impossible to work on these motorcycles.  The good news is more and more owners are joining forces to develop inexpensive DIY tools for accessing the OBD2 communications bus.  When a fault is detected the Triumph motorcycles will illuminate a fault indicator on the dash like most other bikes, however, that code is also written to the ECU memory.  Fixing the problem will not immediately clear the fault light or stored code!  In fact, that code will remain stored until cleared by the dealer.  The good news is the fault light will eventually turn off again after the problem is resolved and the bike is brought through about a dozen run cycles without the fault returning.  (A run cycle means the bike was started, brought to operating temperature, and then shut down.)  

Ok, so that's the OBD2 system on your Triumph, but what exactly is the exhaust servo and why is it a problem?  Well for that we've already written a pretty extensive article, it can be found here: http://www.shopskutr.com/blog/exhaust-valves-and-servo-motors-explained/

So, what does all this mean with respect to the exhaust servo, and the Servo Buddy?  Well, a best case scenario would be you purchase and install a new exhaust system and the Servo Buddy at the same time.  The bike did not have any fault codes before the install, and then since the Servo Buddy was added at the same time as the exhaust servo was removed, it would continue not having any fault codes after because the Servo Buddy would exactly mimic a working servo motor system from the stock exhaust.  The motorcycle would have no way of knowing anything was different.  However, if the exhaust system was installed (or the servo removed) and the bike was started WITHOUT the Servo Buddy installed, the code would be set, and then, even after installing a Servo Buddy the code would remain on for about a dozen run cycles and an exhaust servo fault code would be stored in the ECU until the dealer clears it for the reasons described above.  Good practice would then be to go to the dealer and have the code cleared with the factory tool.

This might sound a bit complex at first but really it's not too bad once you understand how and why codes are set, and the procedure for clearing them.  These systems are in place so that if a fault occurs the dealership has a way of seeing the problem that occurred even if it was an intermittent problem.  In the long run these types of systems will probably take over the motorcycle market among all brands of motorcycles.  It saves the dealer techs time trying to diagnosis problems, and can prove you're not crazy when the bike has an intermittent issue!  We personally hope these systems become more widely accepted in the Japanese brands and more DIY tools are developed for the owners to gain access to the bikes features.

If you are interested in purchasing a Servo Buddy for your Triumph we do have them available in our online store http://www.shopskutr.com/servo-buddy/.  If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, I hope you found this blog informative and useful.

Here at SkutrNet we believe that we have come up with the ideal method for mounting a camera to a motorcycle, whether it be a sportbike with fairings, a cruiser, naked, or standard bike.  In all instances the absolute best video quality and camera position is where the factory mirrors would mount.  There are a couple reasons for this, first, it is a stable platform that was designed from the factory to be a low vibration mounting point (if you've ever tried using a rearview mirror that vibrated you'll understand why these mounting locations are super stable), and second, it provides a few great perspectives; unobstructed front view, rear view, offset of rider for better view, and control view (throttle, brake).  

Camera Compatibility

In order to provide as many options as possible we designed our CycleMount line with GoPro compatible camera mounts.  Our mounts use the standard GoPro mount style for compatibility with those amazing cameras as well as the few competitors of theirs that have decided to use the same or similar mounting method, many other growing action camera manufactures offer adapters as well to take advantage of GoPro's enormous market share.

CycleMount Design & Materials

Our concept was pretty simple, make the best product we could using the best materials and the best design. The hardware is all stainless steel for corrosion resistance and strength; the plastic parts are all glass filled polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is the same material the GoPro cases and mounts are made from, but we reinforced ours with fiberglass to make it even stronger. Even the acorn nuts are stainless steel rather than chrome plated steel like GoPro uses. We also looked to make improvements to the design of the thumb screws. Frustrated with GoPro’s included thumb screws that push out the back of the handle, we fully encased our screws with the plastic handle for easier use. 

We additionally adhered the acorn nuts to the plastic parts to prevent them falling out and getting lost. The bottoms of the mounting plates (used on our sportbike models) are covered with a firm but non-marring rubber for a secure fit that will not damage the existing body work. The true magic of our design however is the 360degree swivel. None of the standard GoPro mounts allow rotation about the Z axis. The sticky mounts, if not very carefully placed exactly straight, will not allow your camera to look straight out the front of the bike, and once they are stuck on, that’s it. And while this might not sound all that difficult, look at the front end of modern sportbikes, they have a million compound angles and curves, and unless you want the camera blocking your ram air inlet or number plate forget about placing it in the center of the nose. The CycleMount however can be easily adjusted to any angle with just the turn of a thumb screw, no tools required, no adhesive.

Currently we have two basic styles of CycleMount.  One for sportbikes with fairings, and one for cruiser / standard / naked bikes that have mirrors that thread into the handlebar controls.  Our camera mounts can be used on track or race bikes as well as street bikes that have moved the mirrors to bar end mirrors or some other method.  Never remove the mirrors on your streetbike all together!  The CycleMount for sportbikes includes a blank mirror blockoff plate for the opposite side as the camera.

Video

I think it pretty much speaks for itself, check out the SkutrNet sponsored racer working the controls!

An exhaust servo motor is one component of the exhaust valve system (sometimes called the ex-up or power valve system) found on almost every modern sportbike including all Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, BMW, Ducati, Triumph and a few others. The system consist of a few parts, the first is the valve assembly inside the exhaust pipe. This is a simple butterfly valve that can open or close to change the amount of exhaust flow. Connected to this valve is a set of cables that run to the other part of the system, the servo motor. This motor, which is controlled by the engine control unit, has a pulley on top that rotates the cables to open and close the valve in the exhaust. The cables are used to isolate the motor from the hot exhaust and allow it to be placed in a more convenient place on the bike.

The purpose of this system according to the motorcycle manufacturers’ marketing departments is to create back-pressure at lower RPM’s to increase torque. Unfortunately, this probably isn’t the real reason; the true purpose of the exup valves is to meet noise and emissions regulations. The exhaust valves are partially closed at idle and low rpm to reduce noise, and closed again at the upper RPMs to meet peak noise and emissions regulations. The proof of this has been shown on the dyno where removing the valves and retuning the engine creates a flatter better torque curve. Additionally, in the USA, most bikes close the valve again at the upper RPM range, but in Europe they do not (different regulations) and the European bikes typically create a few more HP on the top end as a result.

Why should I eliminate the exhaust servo motor?

The exhaust valve system is typically replaced for several reasons including the installation of an aftermarket exhaust that does not have the valve (most full systems and some slip-on exhausts), the valve or servo motor fails and needs to be replaced or removed, or the owner just wants a little more power.

Removing or bypassing the valve is quite easy. It can be accomplished as easily as removing the cables that connect the valve to the motor. The valve typically is spring loaded so if disconnected it will hold the valve in the full open position. Additionally, the purchase of a full or slip on exhaust system often eliminates the exhaust valve.

But now that the ex-up valve has been removed what do you do with the motor unit? The motor is connected to the ECU or engine control unit and as such the ECU will know when it is disconnected or not operating correctly. When this fault is detected a “code” will be thrown; usually this results in an FI light (fault indicator, or fuel injection system fault) being illuminated on the dash. The exhaust code varies by manufacture but general code descriptions can be found below:

• Kawasaki ZX6R and Kawasaki ZX10R – Code 34 or 63
• Yamaha R1 and Yamaha R6 – Code 17 or 18
• Suzuki GSXR-600, Suzuki GSXR-750, and Suzuki GSXR-1000 – Code C46
• Honda CBR600RR and CBR1000RR – Code 34 or 35
• There are many more of course, but these are the most common.

What is the Servo Buddy, and how does it work?

The Servo Buddy®, by SkutrNet, is a small electronic device that replaces the servo motor. By interfacing directly with the engine control unit the servobuddy can emulate a fully functional, stock, exhaust valve and motor system. By doing so the ECU has no idea anything is different from stock and will happily operate as intended without any FI lights or faults being triggered. This is important because if you have retuned your motor it ensures the correct fuel maps are being used and the bike does not go into any sort of “limp home mode”.

The factory motor unit really contains two components inside, the motor that spins the pulley, and a sensor that reports the motor position. The fuel injection system detects faults by monitoring the sensor feedback while sending signals to the motor. When a command is sent from the ECU to spin the motor in the direction that opens the exhaust valve, the sensor is monitored to make sure it spins in the correct direction, and stops in the correct place so that it can confirm the valve is fully open. The system operates similarly when closing the exhaust valve.

The ServoBuddy uses clever electronics to monitor the servo motor control lines, and output the correct sensor feedback to the ECU. The Servo Buddy is unique as it has been intelligently designed to so exactly replicate how the real motors work that the same circuit board can be used for almost every motorcycle manufacture on the market! The differences between models come down to the wiring schemes and connectors used. Additionally, the servo buddy has been carefully designed to be safe for your precious bike with diode protection, feedback protection, ESD protection, motor and sensor side isolation and a completely hardware implemented digital algorithm to make sure it is the most reliable option available. If you don’t understand what that all means, that’s ok. It basically means we’ve designed our circuit to be as safe as possible to your bike’s sensitive electronics, and be reliable for the life of your bike. Our components are automotive or military grade for durability and long life, the connectors are made to OEM specifications, and the wiring systems are automotive quality.

Are there other options?

Well, there are a couple. Most full exhausts or slip-on exhaust systems that eliminate the valve assembly need a way to trick the motor, often times they do this by including a specially designed metal plate that replaces the pulley on the exhaust motor. The purpose of this plate is to restrict the motor movement to simulate the valve and cable assembly. However, this has a couple drawbacks. First, the motor assembly is still in the bike spinning around doing nothing! This is extra weight and space being taken up by a component that isn’t really performing any function other than tricking the computer. We’ve also seen lots of servo motors burn up by poorly designed or installed plates that do not have the stops set correctly resulting in the ECU trying to spin the motor past a hard stop, the motors fail and start making annoying ticking or buzzing sounds. To be fair, a lot of servo motors fail just under normal use as well, but these plates seem to exacerbate the problem. The other option we’ve seen is even worse, “homemade or DIY” servo eliminators. These are usually sold on ebay or on web forums by people who have no electronics skill or knowledge. You can pick these out pretty easily: they are big, wrapped in electrical tape balls, or sealed in globs of epoxy, etc. The people making and selling these usually don’t have access to the connectors so they come with bare wires you are supposed to solder up to your wiring harness or even worse paperclip into the factory connectors (yes seriously, we’ve seen it!). However, the truly scary thing is the “circuits” they use, usually just a couple of resistors and a capacitor. They feed motor control voltage (+ or – 12volt) directly into the ECU sense pin (spec’d at 0-5volt max) with only a current limiting resistor. These often times do not work, but even when “working” could be slowly damaging the engine control unit by repeatedly sending unsafe voltage into the sensitive computer over and over and over again. Unfortunately, once the damage has been done it can often only be fixed by purchasing a new engine control unit which costs a fortune. Please, please, please do not go this route. You are rolling the dice and eventually will be replacing your bike’s electrical system. The good news is newer bikes are combatting this by making the servo motor checking algorithms more complex requiring a better design, which fits perfectly into the Servo Buddy’s capabilities and eliminates the market of these hack jobs.

Let’s wrap it up:

Well I hope you found this information helpful and informative. We’ve tried to hit on most the questions we get from our customers and others curious about how this often misunderstood system works. However, if we’ve missed something or you have any questions please feel free to reach out to us, we’re always here to help. If you are interested in purchasing a Servo Buddy for your bike, we have a large dealer network that sells in brick and mortar shops, dealer websites, ebay, amazon, and we have our own webstore at www.shopskutr.com where you can order anytime.